At
least sometimes you should listen to your inner voice. I could hear a voice
inside me telling me to go to Himalayas. Sometime during the last week of July
I happened to hear from 3 of my friends around me speaking about trekking in
Hampta pass in the Himalayan range. I
decided to check the trekking organizers and found that there were plenty and
among them Great India Outdoors (GIO) was one of the best. I felt like
Himalayas was calling me and didn't want to miss that call. After consultation
(permission) with the family
decided to sign up for the
Hampta pass trek, I thought it
would be better if some of friends accompany me, sent invites to many, got the spontaneous response of YES
from Senthil among the Chennai friends...
After some thought I called one of my best friends Srinivasan AKA Vasan,
my friend from my schooling days now living in Mumbai. With all excitement
narrated him about the likely experience of Himalayas and sort of got his buy
in ... He also had to consult (permission) his family before a concrete yes....
So it was Srinivasan, Senthil & Sairam the three musketeers (mosquitoes)
who were the destined three to take the Himalayan trekking experience head
on... After all the formalities we signed up with GIO and From the time we
signed up for the Hampta Pass trek, the excitement caught on to us..We formed a
whatsaap group named “SSS Himalayan adventure. We had series of con calls to
make a check list of purchases to be made for the trek and also what to carry
and what not.
The days of the trek were between 24th
August to 28th August. With the day of trek nearing the adrenalin levels were
high and we were like school kids anticipating the trek date. Landed in
Chandigarh on the 23rd afternoon, took a cab To Manali ferried by the daredevil
driver Gopal, who took the fear of mountains out of us. The journey was tedious
but the excitement of Himalayas experience had overtaken the tiredness. Checked
in a hotel Snow Valley View to comfortable overnight stay...
24th morning like eager school kids got up
at 5.30 am, got ready with our trekking gear, clicked photographs chugged out
way to Manali old bus stand the meeting point of our trek guides. To our amusement we found only us and few
hawkers who looked us like as if we are aliens descended from mountains. After few calls to the GIO guides we figured
out that the trek would start only at 10.am.
To kill the time we decided to spend time by the side of the huge river
Beas. Had our breakfast by the river side and visited the famous Hadimba Temple.
Hadimba temple apart from other reasons is also famous because the super hit
film Roja was shot here.. Clicked few photographs there and came down to the
meeting point.
To
our relief we could find the trek group along with few fellow Trekkers sheepishly
walking down from their hotel. After a quick introduction with the trek guides
we were ushered into a waiting Tata Sumo, the drive was for about 45 minutes. We
were dropped near a stream and were instructed to fill up our water bottles
with the water from the stream. That was the start of the new way of life to
begin for the next 5 days. With much hesitation and only after assurance from
the GIO guides we filled up water in our bottles. Got introduced with the
fellow Trekkers and to our surprise almost all of them were from Southern
India. We were 14 of us formed into group of 2, with me, Vasan, Senthil and
other two in a group. Our trek guide was Kushal and Govind. Our Himalayan
Trekking journey started here.
Day 1
Like
school boys in a picnic we kept following our guides enthusiastically not
knowing that we haven't tied our trek shoes laces the way it should be and the
trekking bag hanging in imbalance ..
With
their help it was set right and we could find a great difference in the way we
started trekking. After climbing few
meters up, it was a stop for photos, with all of us standing up in a rock as if
we have climbed up the Everest? During
the break we were told that how important is it to keep hydrating while trekking
and also the way should position our shoes while ascending and descending. The
Day 1 trek though not very tough we kept asking how much time left to reach our
base camp. After 2 odd hours and after crossing a stream we could sight our
support team basing the tents. The place
of resting for Day 1 was called CHIKKA.The tenting site was close to a gushing stream;
the surroundings were beautiful with a small hillock in the middle and waterfalls
in the near vicinity. After reaching the
base we were served with Hot Tea followed by Tasty Maggi.
We
rested our bags and got into the tents allotted for us. Senthil pulled us all
to the waterfalls for a photo session which was the icebreaker for the whole
group. Followed up with a game of cards which took the team bonding to the next
level, post dinner we had a formal introduction session over a bonfire. Apart from me Vasan and Senthil, we had
Bharat, Ashrita and Sushma from Bangalore, Pruthvi and Karthik from Hyderabad,
Yashwant and Sabrina the newly married couple from US, Elam, Thyagu and Parthiban
from Chennai and Surjit from Gurgaon. Surjit had a bad fall during the trek and
had sprained his ankle badly, he was limping all through, and we were worried
whether he would be able to walk the next day. But for me, Vasan and Surjit all
the others were youngsters in their early and late twenties. From the bonfire moment the group got together
like a house of fire.
On the first day the tents for 2 groups we
on the either side of the stream, we requested Govind that we would want to do
this trek as one group. The debriefing
for the next day was by Prasanth another veteran trekker guide from GIO. We were told to get ready by 7 am the next
morning for a slightly intense trek lasting 5 to 6 hrs.. Sleep was in the tent which obviously was
uncomfortable as it was the first time. Some of us had hallucination of bears
chasing us and snakes Sliding into our sleeping bags.... The weather would have
been around 5 to 6 degrees...
DAY 2
Woke
up at 5.30 am to the sound of the stream and cold breeze caressing the face.
Started the day with Surya Namaskar and Pranayama which got the body and mind ready
for the trek, Senthil the bravo took a dip on the ice cold stream which made me
shiver. Post breakfast we were briefed about the day's plan. We were told that we
would have to trek approx. for 5 hrs to reach the camping site. Stared as one group with Prasanth leading, and
swept by Govind and Kushal. To our surprise Surjit was all set for the day's
trek in spite of his sprained ankle...
Unlike the previous day the terrain was bit difficult and strenuous to climb.
In between we had to cross a stream barefoot which was tough, the water was Ice
cold which means crossing the stream was an effort in itself.
The
feet become numb after the crossing which means you get 10 mts of time to wear
your shoes back. In between we ate our packed lunch and in 4 odd hours from the
start we reached the camping site. Again a lovely locale beside a stream,
surrounded by a mountain covered with snow. This place was extremely cold even
during the day. The place of the camping site was "CHOTA BALU KA
GHERA". After stretching and
resting all of us went to the nearby glacier for a photo session. We played a
lovely game of Dumb Charades followed by Antaakshari. Retired to bed at 8 pm, I couldn't sleep
peacefully because of the uneven surface and cold weather.
DAY 3
Woke up to the lovely sight of glaciers in
a huge mountain named “INDRASEN". It has a cone like structure at the top resembling
like a Shivlinga. It was an extremely
cold and windy morning. It was a very calm morning with all our friends coming
out of their tents with a calm demeanor and a wry smile. May be that was an
indication of how the day was going to pan out. Prasanth briefed us that we would
cross Hampta Pass today and it would take 5'hrs to cross the pass and 2 hrs descend
to SHERU KA GHERA. All of us were excited that we would today scale 4300 meters
altitude which is the highest point we would be reaching in this trek. All our ace photographers were checking their
cameras for the battery charge, so as to not to miss capturing the Hampta Pass
crossing moment.... The journey to
Hampta pass started at 8 am with Bharat, Senthil, Ashrita, Sabrina, Yashwant
and myself leading the pack. Whilst all of us were covered with winter clothing
from top to bottom, Bharat the Eskimo was in his shorts braving the cold, he was
galloping ahead of us like an obsessed race horse. If our guide Prasanth was a
Spider man, Bharat was Spider man 2.
Like the previous day we carried packed lunch which had apple, frooti
and couple of chapattis. ..
After an hour or so of trek, Ashrita
experienced cramps in her stomach, and was unable to move... Prasanth like a trained
doctor concocted some liquids from his bag, after consuming the magic potion
Ashrita was on back on her feet again.
We started our journey after a break, I was feeling difficult to breathe
after a certain altitude and was gasping for breath, and I could see Sabrina
panting in rhythm with me. After a while
we reached near an ascent covered completely with ice.... The surface was very slippery;
Prasanth pulled me through the surface with one helping hand with Ashrita in
other... It was like a walk in the park for Yashwant and Senthil. I couldn't
see any sign of difficulty in their faces. In fact Yashwant was carrying
Sabrina's bag in addition to his... Karthik like a monk was chugging forward
using his trekking pole like the skiing rod... Elam and Thyagu were keeping us
in splits by playing pranks with each other. Sushma was thoroughly enjoying this.
In fact I thought she raced her way forward to hear these guys pull each other
legs. Surjit was slowly inching his way
up the pass along with me without showing any trace of pain ... After 4 hours
of trek we sighted Hampta pass.. It was a mountain top covered with Ice. Prasanth
pushed us to walk fast as there was a possibility of a White Out. White out is
clouds engulfing the mountain resulting in rain or snow fall, we could witness
white out nearing us, and walked in a hurry... In this hurry many of us didn't realize
that we have actually crossed Hampta Pass. At least I didn't realize it till
the time Senthil told me that we have actually crossed it. As Prasanth predicted it started raining, he
ushered us into a cave in an ascent which looked dangerous to climb. I was
tired, hungry and sleepy. All of these at the same time. Had an apple and slept
in sitting position holding Elam's leg tightly so as not to fall. Yashwant and Karthik literally crept their
way to our cave. After 30 minutes we were ready to descent to SHERU KA GHERA. Heard from Prasanth that our amazing
Spider-Man Bharat had reached the camping site along with the other support
staff by 2 pm. I couldn't believe it cos
we were yet to cross Hampta pass by then. I thought Bharat would have rolled his way
down to reach that early. Jokes apart it was an amazing feat to have reached in
5 hrs time.
The descent looked more treacherous than
the ascent. I and Surjit were scared to even look down; it was steep and
slippery with loose rocks... Prasanth like a Tarzan was jumping from our rock
to another with Ashrita. This sight made me more scared and I was praying to
all the gods that I should reach the base without any fall or injury. Before my
prayers could reach the god, I stepped on a rolling rock and was tumbling down;
Prasanth the savior held me tightly and steadied me. I thanked my stars gulped
some water and resumed my downward journey...
Though it looked like the plains were in near vicinity, it took a long
time to reach. To our dismay our camping site was at least 2 kms from the
mountain base.. I walked to our camping site like Will Smith in the movie
Independence Day (in the climax scene) dragging my trekking pole. Our camping
site wore a deserted look with no one outside. I peeped into the kitchen tent to find Ashrita
and Prasanth. Was offered a tea which gave some energy to tell them the I was
having a splitting headache. The
headache you experience sometimes could be because of Altitude Sickness... I
returned to my tent popped up a pill and was trying to sleep. The cook offered
hot pasta which was yummy. Senthil was also experiencing Altitude sickness. Both of us had Garlic with hot water which is
the medicine for this. After a while
Vasan walked into the tent with anger masking the tiredness. He was upset with
the way Prasanth had pushed us, leaving behind few. He was more upset because
Parthiban was unable to walk and literally had to be carried to the tent. The evening was uneasily calm with all of us
confining ourselves to the tent, with niggles, pain and tiredness. Assembled for dinner around 8, with no energy
to eat. Post dinner immediately retired to our tents.
In the tent I was just mulling through the
happenings of the day in my mind and was feeling happy of having achieved
something... This was one of the challenging moments I have experienced in my
life. It was a challenge for physical and mental endurance... The weather was
punishing with scorching sun in the morning and cold winds in the afternoon,
was finding it difficult to breathe in the altitude, rain made it worse, with
the wet ground being slippery
Unrelenting Ascent of 60 degrees, treacherous descent ,Slippery glaciers
and the long walk to the tent.. Oh god, I would never forget this day in my
life... This day had taught me many lessons.
Interestingly apart from my own experience I learnt valuable management
lessons from my trek friends. To narrate a few:
When Sabrina was finding it difficult to
breathe Yashwant carried her trekking bag and moved on... He took the task off her which she was
finding it difficult to complete so that she could complete the other task of
trekking with ease. At the same time he with utmost confidence in her moved on
without pampering her being with her or guiding her.
Surjit in spite of his sprained ankle which
happened on Day 1 continued the trek with great determination and grit... Looking
at him trekking without showing signs of giving up was a great motivation for
all of us... I personally took lot of inspiration from him.
Senthil: He was the glue for the entire
group. But for him this group would have not come together like the way it
did... He made everyone comfortable and was ever ready to help....
Bharat the inspirer was the one leading us
all the way every day. His energy was infectious...
Vasan: Can I call him the yoga guru. Yoga
was just one of the many things he taught. His sense of calmness brought serenity
to the entire group....
Everyone had something in them, which was learning
for me.
I slept like a log that night without any
hallucination or disturbance....
DAY 4
The day dawned brightly with sun showing
its face from behind the mountains...
The day’s trek was scheduled to begin at 9 am; hence all of us were
lazing around chatting about the previous day's experience. Like other days the
camping site was a scenic beauty with a lengthy stream following majestically nearby. We made it clear to the guides that all of us
would trek together irrespective of the time it would take without leaving
anybody behind... From SHERU KA GHERA we have to descend to place called CHATRU
which is at 3300 meters altitude. The trek would be for 3 odd hours. Though it sounded easy, the major hurdle was
to cross the stream which was at least 20 mts in length. Crossing it barefoot
was a challenge as the water was extremely cold. Our own Tarzan tried to make
it look easy by crossing it. We crossed the stream as a group holding each
other's hand... The feet became numb and
cold, got back to normalcy after generously applying tiger balm in the feet.
This descent was also steep and rocky. We were trekking through Spiti valley which
is dry with no vegetation. After an hour
off descent we could sight a road and some vehicles... This was the first sight
of civilization after 3 days... After
resting in a hillock we crossed a stream again, luckily this time there was a
makeshift bridge to cross the stream. After 30 minutes of trek we encountered a
steep climb and descent which again looked treacherous. Our Tarzan, not to waste time and to be ahead
of the rival trekking group guided us through a slippery glacier which was an
experience.. He did this with finesse
and made it look easily. We reached our
camping site CHATRU to be greeted with aromatic smell of Biryani made by our
cooks.
Like the other days the camping site was
near a stream or can I call it a river, the water was gushing fast at a speed
of Rapid 1. After Biryani we were ushered in waiting Tata Sumo to proceed to Chandra Tal.
A lake which is at 4600 meters altitude.
The literal translation of Chandra Tal is Moon Lake. The drive to the
lake took 4 hours in a road which didn't exist... In between we stopped in a
place named BAATAL
which had a STD booth run by an elderly couple... This was the first time we
could contact our family after 4 days. Spoke to my wife, mutually relieved to
know both sides are fine...
Chandra Tal was like a paradise in earth.
The water was pristine and the surroundings were breathtaking. The lake was
surrounded by mountains and the place was extremely windy. Spend time in clicking pics and some of us
showcased our aerobatic skills to pose photographs. Reached the campsite back
at 8 pm. This was the last night of camping so we decided to spend as much time
possible together. Senthil our cheer leader suggested that we share our
experience of the trek .This was a moment of taking the bonding to the next
level... I could feel the energy of the entire group and some of us were very
emotional while sharing the experience. Vowed that we would stay in touch and
possibly explore a trek next year in the same group. Retired to bed at 10 pm. I
was emotional and recollecting the 4 days of trekking experience, didn’t know
when I slept
Day 5..
Woke up to the greeting from Vasan, wishing
me Happy Birthday. This is the first
time in many years I am away from my family on my Birthday. I was missing my family, but was more than
compensated with the lovely people around wishing me with genuine love. Pleasantly surprised to find a cake (made of
Suji Aaata) was organized, had fun cutting the cake and shaking legs for Lungi
dance. It would be an unforgettable birthday for me for many reasons. It was a
bliss to celebrate this day in Himalayas ... I couldn't have asked for more.
After breakfast we proceed to Manali by road. The road to Manali was very well laid, with
the army maintaining it. The roads in this part of the country is built and
maintained by Border Road Organization (BRO). Briefly stopped at Rohtang pass
to click pictures and have Corn. From
this place on we felt like we are back in the mundane of routine... Reached
Manali at 2 pm. Had lunch with all the folks for one last time. Bid goodbye and
boarded the cab to Chandigarh. I think we were destined to have bad drivers
during this trip. Comparing to the driver who drove us back to Chandigarh,
Gopal the driver who drove us to Manali was better. It was like a choice between Devil and Deep Sea. Reached Chandigarh at 2.30 am on 29th morning.
Stayed at a hotel in Chandigarh. Breakfast at Pal Dhaba was the best way to
begin the morning... Our flight back to Chennai was via Mumbai. We boarded the
flight like superstars to find Dharmendra the erstwhile superstar in the same
flight.... Landed in Chennai at 6 pm to be greeted by my wife and sons....
Every moment of those 5 days were special.
Cannot single out one moment though. My bonding with Vasan became stronger. My
admiration for Senthil grew multifold... Surjit, Yashwant, Sabrina, Ashrita,
Sushma, Bharat, Pruthvi, Karthik, Elam, Thyagu and Paarthi are no more mere
Acquaintances, they are friends for life. My personal conviction and belief has scaled
up to new altitudes.
Am
glad that I did this trek. I rediscovered myself in many ways. I could feel the
energy the mountains radiated. The enormity of the Mountains and the gushing
streams taught me humbling lessons which I have never learnt. I was able to
spend time for myself and feel my inner self.
My outlook about life has changed after this trip. It was one of a kind
of experience which would stay with me for life . So would the friends I
made during this trip...
I
would want to end this long blog by thanking my wife without whom I wouldn't be
what I am today. She has been my pillar of strength and motivation for me to
pursue my passions....
God
Bless.......
